3AC

So the long distance trains come in a variety of classes. Apparently different lines operate a bit differently but on the train we were on there was 1AC, 2AC, 3AC, and 2^nd class. 1AC had just two berths in a private cabin with a door that locks. 2AC had four berths and curtains. 3AC had six births and was wide open. I didn’t venture into 2^nd class but the lack of the letters “AC” afterward makes me pretty sure it was a sweaty, smelly, hell hole.

Our first long train ride was in 3AC because that was the only ticket available. It was a Tourist Quota ticket so our area was filled with other foreigners, who happened to all be American. The awkward thing about 3AC is that it requires coordination with strangers. If everyone has their bed down, then everyone can lay down, but no one can sit up, eat, or really even turn over. So to sit up or eat, someone has to put their bed away and then share with whoever is below them. Awkwardly Noah and I were both on the top bunks so we couldn’t even see the people below us well.

There are traveling food vendors that run down the aisles advertising their wares. At some point I was desperate for a Samosa and went on a Samosa Stakeout. This was necessary because the Samosa man was like a jet. He got by so fast I could never flag him down. By the time I heard the word “Samosa” he was already two cars away. He also came at weird intervals. And being on the top bunk wasn’t an advantage. I eventually had to just lean my head off the bunk and stare at the corridor and wave down anyone who went by and then disappointingly dismiss the water guy, the dosa guy, the pakora guy, or the “weird vat of noodles” guy.