The weather at 7000ft above sea level is cool in the morning and warm during the day. Basically delightful. The sun rises early, the days are long, not a cloud in the sky in November.
I spent my first day walking around the neighborhood where my guesthouse is situated. I wouldn't say there are "sidewalks", more like occasional flat elevated areas that cars don't drive on in between giant piles of rubble or gaping uncovered sewers. So strolling is not so much a passive sport as a very active one in which it is a little hard to look around because you are constantly looking at your feet. However, it was a lovely stroll.
An important aspect of enjoying business travel for me is how I am received by people. In Niger nobody acknowledges my existence (despite the fact that I'm fairly certain I stand out) and in Morocco I have three single men stalking me at all times. Ethiopia however, hits this perfect medium. About one in ten people I pass on the street says "Hello, how are you?" and when I say "Fine" they smile, and then keep walking. It's the perfect balance of friendliness without creepiness. I feel welcomed but not ogled. Appreciated but not preyed upon.
The other amazing thing about Ethiopia is that I knew exactly two people coming in- my good friend from grad school, and a friend of a friend who was referred to me after I posted a desperate facebook message to find out if anyone had contacts where I'd be traveling. So on different nights I went out with each of these people and met their friends and magically- they had a friend in common. This is amazing because as I meet this friend of a friend in a bar and explain I've been in Addis for 2 days, suddenly this other guy walks in and comes over to say "Laura, great to see you!" and now it looks like I have friends. Yay to false impressions.
The last thing that I love about Addis is my guest house. It is the warmest, most comfy place on earth. The manager himself picked me up from the airport. The receptionists leave each other little notes about what's been going on during their shifts so I may say "off to do some shopping" to one and when I return, the next one says "what did you buy?" (I swear it's endearing and not creepy). The only slightly creepy part was that I was exploring the building and went up to the roof and found a door with a key in it but decided not to trespass but when I went downstairs, the manager said "I noticed you were looking at the terrace, feel free to enjoy yourself out there". So there are cameras... but that's a safety thing, right?
My room is big and clean and came with a fresh pair of slippers and a little kitchen. The cleaning lady places everything I own at right angles when I leave. The cook calls my room before bringing my breakfast to ensure I'm dressed (now how is that an innovation that other hotels haven't picked up on?). I eat my breakfast looking out a giant window, bathed in light.
Communication can be a bit rough. I called reception to ask for a few extra hangers. Then someone called back to ask me to describe them and I said they were plastic and in the closet. The cleaning lady hiked all the way up 5 floors to bring me a giant plastic bucket. FAIL. Eventually I got my hangers though, about 30 of them.
My favorite receptionist helps me every morning to practice pronouncing the names of every person I have an interview with. I feel like a part of a lovely household, complete with crying babies from all the Americans adopting Ethiopian infants who also stay in the same hotel.
I gotta make sure my projects here pan out so I can come back to this city!
No comments:
Post a Comment