Thursday, June 21, 2012

NYC Cabbies/ L'homme africain

So due to the crisis in Mali I haven't been traveling much lately, so my only interaction with Africans (besides brief status updates from my facebook friends) has been with NYC taxi drivers.  

Once upon a time some NPR show interviewed NYC cabbies and asked them what they dislike most about passengers and one of their top answers was "when they ask me where I'm from." I, however, choose to blatantly disregard that preference or more accurately, haughtily assume it doesn't apply to me. 

As a slight concession I never ask them their country of origin first thing, I first chat with them in general to ascertain whether they want to talk to me or not.  If they are feeling chatty (particularly with a french accent) I ask.  And frankly, once it's clear that I know where their country is and have probably been there, they don't seem too offended that I asked.  

I imagine the annoyance comes when people gape in awe at how mystical their homeland is and use it as a distancing measure to emphasize the differences between driver and passenger. I've had enough people confuse Monaco and Morocco or ask me if there is any food in Ethiopia to understand a little why they might not want to engage in those conversations. But me, I just want travel tips and some "word on the street" political analysis.  

I took a cab with a guy from Guinea the other day and once we established that we both spoke French, I got some fascinating opinions on the current political crisis in Mali and what it represents on a larger scale.  I like to listen to people talk about political events and religion, and all other sorts of things people feel strongly about. 

One thing makes me uncomfortable though (and I fully acknowledge that I have no right to be uncomfortable):  when African men talk about "L'homme africain".  These conversations come up a lot.  It is usually after a rant about the deteriorating political situation in this or that country.  The conversation elevates from current events to some variation of "this is the problem with the African man".  

Yikes.  I am probably hyper-aware of generalizations, particularly those based on race or ethnicity.  I think this probably has a lot to do with me being an "American woman" (see what I did there :P).  But it's really hard for me to listen to a person put down an entire vast and varied group in one fell swoop: "African men only want power" "African men let their leaders walk all over them" "African men only know corruption".  Each statement makes me want to interject "well clearly not ALL African men" or "people everywhere have that trait" or something to soften the blow of slapping such labels on a big group--- even though the labeler is a member of that group.  

And perhaps that is what perplexes and disturbs me most- the willingness and facility with which these  men that I meet criticize their group and therefore themselves.  And it's not a silly joke like "ha, well I'm an American woman so I walk fast and drink lots of water".  It's deep criticism and resentment.  Which means it is self-criticism and what borders on sounding like self-loathing.  I don't mean that as an accusation- and perhaps I am over-interpreting, but that is why I shudder every time I am in a cab and I hear "L'homme africain".